• The Beauty Lounge St Ives

Retinol... the Fountain of Youth?

Updated: Apr 2, 2018

I watched a BBC documentary the other week about skin ageing presented by Cherry Healy. Well worth a watch if its still available on BBC iplayer. She spoke to industry experts who agreed that when it comes to reversing the signs of skin ageing, Retinol is hands down the industry's gold standard ingredient. It has the power to help accelerate skin renewal and reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and age spots for firmer, smoother and more evenly-toned skin. In some cases even reverse the effects! It is considered the holy grail of non-invasive wrinkle protection by dermatologists. Originally developed to help fight acne by clearing away dead skin cells and opening pores, dermatologists soon discovered it was extremely effective at fighting the signs of ageing. It has had FDA approval for over 40 years which means that clinical studies have shown that it does improve the appearance of fine lines as well as stretch marks, brown spots and acne scarring. A claim which no other skincare ingredient on the market can make.


What is Retinol?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, first discovered in 1909. It is a retinoid.


Are all Retinol Products Equal?

What many people don't know about Retinol is that it is a highly-reactive molecule, meaning it can break down – and lose its potency – as soon as it is exposed to sunlight or air. Meaning that not all retinol products are equal so before you part with your money, ask the following question...'is it microencapsulated retinol?'


Dermalogica use advanced microencapsulation technology to help stabilise Retinol and ensure its maximum potency. This approach protects the Retinol from degrading as soon as it is exposed, enabling it to deliver superior results.


Microencapsulated retinol for maximum anti-ageing



Microencapsulated Retinol also creates an invisible shield on the skin's surface to help reduce moisture loss, which is critical for reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.


You can find this technology in Age Reversal Eye Complex and Overnight Retinol Repair 1%

Customisable retinol to control irritation

Everyone's skin reacts differently to Retinol. Some people can use the product straightaway without any irritation. However, some people experience temporary redness, flakiness, peeling and sensitivity because their skin lacks enough "retinoid receptors."

Retinoid receptors are proteins naturally found in skin. They act like shuttles that carry and release retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives) into skin cells, triggering collagen production. Retinol – the strongest form of retinoid available without a prescription – is converted by skin enzymes into the even stronger form of Retinoic Acid, which is what causes the irritation.

Fortunately, the skin can build retinoid receptors with controlled exposure to Retinol. To help soothe and control irritation in the meantime, Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair and Overnight Retinol Repair 1% come with a unique Buffer Cream that allows you to customize the strength of the Retinol in each formula while your skin acclimates. When I used Age Reveral Eye Complex to begin with, I found it made my eyes watery so I had to build up to using it 'neat'. Kelly, Kayley and Ollie will be able to discuss whether retinol is suitable for your skin so why not book in for a free 20 skin mapping?



Ready for stronger anti-ageing results?

When your skin has acclimatised to Overnight Retinol Repair, which contains 0.5% Retinol, it may be time to upgrade to Overnight Retinol Repair 1%. This clinical-strength treatment cream is ideal for dramatically smoothing and renewing more mature, aging skin.


Always use an SPF during the day

During the day our skin defends itself from pollutants and UV rays whilst at night time it repairs any damage thus caused, reproducing new skin cells which replace the old ones and reduce the appearance of ageing. As Retinol mimics this natural process, it is best to use Retinol products at night.


“New cells encouraged by the use of retinol during the day will be damaged by the sun,” warns Dr Daniel Glass from The Dermatology Clinic London, who recommends using a broad-spectrum UVA sun cream during the day and applying retinol at night to minimise sun damage. (The Telepgraph)

Importance of SPF

As well as microencapsulated retinol products, our other tool in the fight against those pesky lines is to always use an SPF. It is important to always use an SPF not just when using Retinol products but because its the UVA from sunlight that causes ageing.


You might think that if you are behind glass either in the office or car, that the glass offers you protection from the damaging rays and you won't need an SPF. The bad news is that UVA rays penetrate through glass. Glass may inhibit the UVB rays which are responsible for sunburn so we think we're protected but the long term damaging rays from UVA can still get through. In the abovementioned documentary, they looked at both sides of the face of a coach driver and her right side had predominantly more wrinkles than her left side. The expert explained that this was caused by the UVA rays penetrating the glass and causing long term damage to the skin.


Age Reversal Eye Complex - £64.00 (15ml)

Overnight Retinol Repair 0.5% - £79.00 (30ml)

Overnight Retinol Repair 1% - £95.50 (25ml)


Upcoming Retinol Promotions


As a reader of my blog, I thought I'd give you the heads up first on our upcoming Retinol promotions, especially as they are a 'while stocks last' offer. We will be running an Introduction to Retinol promotion in March. After you have enjoyed a Pro 60 Facial with Ollie or Kayley, you will receive an Age Smart Retinol Power Couple pouch containing travel sizes of Overnight Retinol Repair 0.5% with accompanying Buffer Cream and Age Reversal Eye Complex so you can trial the wonders of this modern miracle at home and see the results for yourself! This contents of the pouch are worth over £40!!! Remember....Be quick though girls, this offer is whilst stocks last!


Then in April we will be running a further Retinol promotion whereby when you purchase any full size Retinol product and an SPF Product together, then you will receive a Dewy Skin kit for free!! The kit comprises 5ml of the fabulous Phyto Replenish Oil (which retails for £17). Its a feather-light oil that rapidly absorbs - it's like a glass of water for your skin. You can even mix it in with your foundation. When I attended my first Dermalogica training session about 18 months ago, the therapists on the course were asked what their favourite Dermalogica product was; the majority of them said Phyto Replenish Oil! The other product in the kit is Overnight Repair Serum (5ml) which is a powerful anti-ageing peptide to minimise fine lines and boost skin luminosity overnight. A full size 15ml of this product retails at £63.50! And again, this is a whilst stocks last offer so first come first served!



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